The Rolex 5508, often referred to as the "James Bond Submariner," is a significant model in the illustrious history of Rolex diving watches. Introduced in the late 1950s, the Submariner 5508 is appreciated not only for its link to cinema but also for its enduring design and technical innovation. This particular model was among the early Submariners to achieve a water resistance of up to 100 meters, a remarkable feat at the time.

What's on Offer

This c.1958 (pre-Bond) Rolex Oyster Perpetual Submariner, reference 5508, is a true gem of vintage horology, steeped in both history and character. Acquired from the family of the original owner, this particular example is made even more exceptional by its fully tropicalised gilt gloss dial—an organic transformation that has rendered the once-black dial into a rich, textured brown, unique to this very piece. It’s a stunning testament to the passage of time and a treasure for collectors who value the charm of natural patina.

The dial features the iconic Mercedes hands and oversized hour plots, both retaining their original lume which has aged gracefully, adding further warmth and authenticity. The gilt text remains crisp and legible, shimmering subtly against the darkened dial surface, while the glossy finish still peeks through in the right light, enhancing its depth.

Housed in the classic stainless steel Oyster case, the watch is paired with a period-correct bracelet and features a sharp, black rotating bezel with minute graduations, displaying light wear consistent with its age but preserving its vintage tool-watch appeal. This 5508 is not only a rare early Submariner—it’s a one-of-one, shaped by time, and ready for its next chapter.