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Rolex - Oyster Perpetual - Submariner Model Reference 5508 - Gilt Gloss Dial - c.1958

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A Very Charismatic and Iconic Rolex 5508 'James Bond' Submariner from c.1958 with a Beautifully Aged Gilt Glossy Dial with Chapter Ring and Original Oyster Bracelet (7206 - 3/58)

The ref. 5508 first appears in 1958. Made as a replacement for the 6538, the new models were equipped with new 1500 series movements, and the calibre 1530 was used in these. They were produced from 1958 to 1962. The 5508 was the first Submariner with fifteen-minute markers on the bezel which we still see on Submariners today. 

A vintage dive watch highly sought after by collectors and enthusiasts alike, the Rolex 5508 needs little introduction. It was the first submariner to be introduced in the 1950s and it paved the way for the iconic Rolex 5512 references that followed. The
5508 depth rating was an impressive feat at the time, with its ability to withstand depths of up to 100 meters. The Rolex Oyster Perpetual technology was used in the construction of this watch, which made it even more durable and reliable for
deep-sea diving.   Regarding dial variations, there are several different versions available depending on their age and production period. Many collectors prefer these early models with gilt dials and it's clear to see why. 

What’s On Offer 

In terms of vintage Rolex, it doesn't get much better than the 5508 'James Bond'  and we are pleased to offer this wonderful example for sale. In beautiful vintage condition, this watch is much sought-after and almost certainly features on the wishlist of most collectors. The reference 5508 carries a classic dial with a perennial Rolex coronet, and this one is in great shape with beautifully aged lume plots and corresponding lume in the synonymous Mercedes hands.

The gilt gloss dial is framed by a chapter ring and encapsulated underneath an original domed acrylic crystal - an iconic aesthetic that holds a timeless charm. The crystal has some signs of wear, hardly surprising given its age and if anything, a testament to its original condition. Speaking of the original condition, this watch is paired with what we believe is its original bracelet (7206)- it certainly is the correct bracelet for a 5508 and is stamped 3/58 which corresponds with the date of the movement number and also has the same 'III.1958' inside the caseback! The bracelet is in remarkably good condition with only minor signs of wear and looks great. 

This charismatic watch is a real head-turner and has captured the imagination and envy of many an enthusiast over the past 60+ years. 

Additional information

Made from

Case: Stainless Steel

Dial: Black

Crystal: Plexiglas

Bracelet: Stainless Steel

Technical specifications

Winding: Automatic

Movement Type: Mechanical

Calibre: 1530

Jewels: 25

Waterproof: When new

Power reserve: 44hrs

Purchase details

Condition: Very Good

Model Reference: 5508

Date of issue: c.1958

Warranty: 12 Months VWS


Width (without crown): 38mm

Lug width: 20mm

Lug height: (lug to lug) 46mm

Wrist size: 185mm (approx)