Louis Cartier drew the Tank in 1917, taking his cue from the plan view of a Renault tank. Six decades later, the Must de Cartier line put that silhouette in silver gilt and made the house's most famous shape a little easier to own. This vermeil example, from circa 1990–1992, is a good illustration of the idea: the original proportions, a lapis-blue crown and a gold finish that has softened with wear.

What’s On Offer

Here we have a particularly elegant Must de Cartier Tank Vermeil ladies' wristwatch, dating from approximately 1990–1992, featuring a striking multicoloured dial, gold-plated sterling-silver case and the unmistakable proportions of Cartier's celebrated Tank design.

The Tank is one of those rare watch designs that has remained instantly recognisable for more than a century, and this example demonstrates exactly why.

The rectangular case features the distinctive elongated sidebars, or brancards, that have become synonymous with the Tank collection. Measuring approximately 21mm across, it retains the beautifully refined proportions associated with Cartier's smaller dress watches.

The case is crafted from 925 sterling silver with 20-micron gold plating, a construction known as vermeil and characteristic of the Must de Cartier collection.

There are visible marks of wear to the case, with areas of gold plating loss around the lugs revealing the silver beneath. This creates a contrasting gold-and-silver appearance and is reflected in the watch's condition assessment.

The real attraction, however, is that wonderful dial.

Featuring a white enamel-finish outer section with bold black Roman numerals, the dial surrounds a beautifully decorative rectangular centre with vertical stripes in contrasting metallic tones. The combination of silver, bronze and gold creates a striking Art Deco-inspired appearance, particularly appropriate for the Tank's architectural design.

The delicate Must de Cartier signature appears across the upper portion of the central panel, while elegant blued-steel sword-shaped hands provide a beautiful contrast against the warm metallic finish.

At the side of the case sits Cartier's distinctive beaded crown, finished with a blue cabochon that provides a particularly attractive finishing touch.

The watch is fitted with a Plexiglass crystal, which displays considerable surface wear. The crystal's condition has been taken into account in the overall assessment, and replacement or restoration can be discussed as part of an optional service.

Power comes from the Cartier Calibre 057, a four-jewel quartz movement offering the convenience of battery-powered timekeeping.

Completing the watch is a glossy brown leather strap with an embossed crocodile-style pattern, complementing the warmth of the gold-plated case and the rich tones of the dial.

This example is accompanied by its Cartier presentation box and service booklet, welcome additions that enhance its appeal.

With its distinctive decorative dial, classic Tank proportions and unmistakable Cartier styling, this is an attractive vintage dress watch with plenty of character.

NB: The service history of this watch is unknown, and as we are selling it on behalf of a consignor who has asked us to help sell an entire collection, it is offered for sale as seen. Due to the high volume of watches we receive, our consigners do not service each watch before they’re sold, and they are priced to reflect this without a warranty. However, servicing can be arranged with our watchmaker at an additional cost if you wish. If so, please contact us to discuss this. Once serviced, the watch will be given a 12-month warranty.

Condition Report:

Crystal: Fair

Dial: Excellent 

Case: Good

Movement: Not Serviced

Overall: Good