A Charming Sterling Silver Trench Style Watch in Beautiful Condition with Breguet Numerals, Ornate Hands, Recessed Subdial, and Wire lugs. c1930

The Trench watch (wristlet) was a type of watch that came into use by the military during World War I, as pocket watches were not practical in combat. It was a transitional design between pocket watches and wristwatches, incorporating features of both. 

The very first watch that somebody adapted to wear on a wrist is unknown. The first series of purpose-made men’s wristwatches were produced by Girard-Perregaux in 1880 for the German Navy. During World War I numerous companies, including Omega, Longines, and others produced wristwatches for the military. These watches were of a virtually identical style with an enamel dial, wide white numerals, and a luminescent radium hour hand. Often they did not bear the name of the manufacturer, though the movement, originally designed in the 1890s for ladies’ pendant watches, was marked "Swiss".

From pocket watches those trench watches inherited hinged front and back covers. The lugs for a strap looked like a thick wire attachment to the classical round shape of pocket watches rather than an integrated part of the body of the later and modern wristwatches. The name "wristlet" was used until the early 1930s and was eventually replaced by the modern name "wristwatch".

What’s On Offer 

This rather beautiful sterling silver trench-style watch would make a charming addition to any vintage enthusiast's collection. The case is in good shape and with its ultra-slim bezel and wire lugs, showcases the dial perfectly with its Breguet numerals and ornate blued steel hands still completely intact. The recessed subdial and minute track have also survived remarkably well.

The case back is engraved with 0514281 and AIM, the case also has a hallmark denoting it was produced in Glasgow around c.1930.

Although the Glasgow Assay Office records are lost, the Edinburgh and Dublin Assay Office databases each include an A5M incuse mark with no surround. The punches were registered on 3 March 1931 and 17 September 1934 respectively. They were entered by J Véron Grauer & Co of Geneva.

From this, it seems reasonable to infer that the identical A5M mark was entered at the Glasgow Assay Office by Véron Grauer & Co, and by extension that all of the similar “A (number) M” and “A (symbol) M” marks, incuse with no surround, that was entered at the Edinburgh, Dublin and Glasgow assay offices were entered by Véron Grauer & Co.

We are unsure of the caliber as there are no markings however it is adjusted 3 positions meaning the movement is obviously of decent quality. 

The slim bezel means this watch wears larger on the wrist and looks rather stylish teamed with the black pin buckle strap we have paired it with. Recently serviced by our master watchmaker and running well, this is a unique vintage piece with bags of character, just waiting to be worn again! 

Additional information

Made from

Case: Sterling Silver

Dial: White

Crystal:

Bracelet: Black Leather Pin Buckle Strap

Technical specifications

Winding: Manual

Movement Type: Mechanical

Caliber:

Jewels: 

Waterproof:

Power reserve:

Purchase details

Condition:

Model Reference: Caseback 0514281

Date of issue:

Warranty: 12 Months by VWS

Dimensions

Width (without crown): 30mm

Lug width: 10mm

Lug height: (lug to lug)36.5mm

Wrist size: Adjustable